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November 23, 2004

さがみ包丁処 とり一(鎌倉)

HanakoとOZマガジン両方に掲載されていた
鳥料理の専門店。
老舗の精肉店が直営でやっている
割烹料亭ということで、期待して行って来たのですが、
あちこちで紹介されている有名店の割には、
あまりレベルが高くないお店という印象でした。
以下、詳細レポです。長いです・・。

まず、鎌倉駅西口を出てから
すぐの御成通りに向かいます。
東口の小町通りが完全に観光地化されていて、
賑やかな印象なのに比べると、
こちらはいかにも地元の商店街、といった感じ。
夜になると人気も少なく、
延々と歩いていると段々心細くなって来ます。
そして、御成通りの外れにひっそりと佇むお店が
とり一でした。
外観は落ち着いてて小奇麗で、
さりげなさがいかにも老舗、という感じ。

飛び石連休の中日だったので、
事前に予約しておき、夜の営業開始時間の
17時丁度に入ってみると、
電話で座敷かテーブルをお願いしていたのですが、
どうやら座敷の準備は間に合わなかったらしく、
奥のテーブル席に通されました。
ひとつの個室にテーブル席が2つ。
「(・・・煙草臭い。)」
先客の男性が煙草を吸っていたのですが、
換気が悪いのか、個室だからか
煙草の煙りと匂いがこもっていました。
初っ端で、不安を覚えるmidoro。

席は3人なのに6人席でゆったりでした。
1枚板の大きな分厚い木で出来たテーブルもいい感じです。
そういえば、入り口には鎌倉出身の画家、
横山隆一の大きな絵がかかっていたし、
トイレも綺麗だったし、
外観とか内装は、良かったんですよ。ほんと。

そして、メニューを拝見していると、
入り口の方で、店員の女性が
「○○さんよ、○○さん」
「えっ、○○さん?」
「そう、○○さんですけどね」
とmidoroの名前をなんだか大声で連呼しています。
心臓に悪いです。てゆーか、お客の名前を
さん付けってどうなの。普通は「様」でしょう。
年配の女性ゆえの気さくさなのか、
全体的にフレンドリーな接客?です。
ビールを注文したあと、
お酒を何にするか迷っていたら、
さっさと行ってしまったし。

雑誌にも載っていて、
一番お勧めという、箱会席3,680円を
いただくことにしましたが、
せっかくなので、鳥料理も食べてみたい!
「そんなにお腹は空いてないんですけど、
会席と一緒に頼んでも食べられる量ですか?」
と尋ねると、
「箱会席はそんなに量は多くないから
大丈夫ですよ。鳥料理はもし残ったら、
お土産にして持ち帰っていただけますしね。」
というので安心して頼むことに。

鳥料理は鳥たたき、やきとり、手羽先焼き、
など8種類ぐらいあり、どれにするか迷ったので、
「会席のメニューと被らない鳥料理はどれですか?
お勧めはどれですか?」と再び尋ねると、
「全部お勧めですよ。どれでも合います」という
にべもない返事が。
いや、それはわかってるんですよ。
わかってるけど、迷ってるんですよ。
強いて言えばどれなんですか。
迷ってる客には何らかの前向きなアドバイスをくれ、
と思うmidoro。
とりあえず、一番スタンダードそうな
やきとりを単品注文しました。
1人前で840円。

まず、瓶ビールが出て来たのですが、
「(・・・ぬるい・・・)」
この時点で失敗を確信したmidoro。
確かに夕方の開店時間すぐに訪れたのは
こちらですが、ビールが冷えてないっていうのは
ちょっと気の利いたお店なら
絶対にあり得ないことのはず。
一緒に出て来た前菜も、
別にどうってことのない味。

そして、箱懐石の1品目はまだかなー、と
待っていると、突然、やきとりが出て来ました。
びっくり。
え、だって、残ったら持って帰れるって
言ってたのに、先に出ちゃったら食べざるを
得ないじゃん。
確かに、いつ頃出して下さい、とは
指定しなかったけど、ちょっと驚きました。
これって、メインじゃなくて、おつまみ扱い?
やきとりは串に刺さったやつじゃなくて
大きい1枚肉を甘辛のタレで焼いた
要するに照り焼きですね。
肉自体はジューシーで熱々で美味しかったけど、
タレ自体はそんなに特徴ないです。普通。

そうこうするうちに、
箱懐石1品目の刺身と、2品目の魚の焼き物が
一緒に出て来てしまいました。
配膳のペースが無茶苦茶です。
でも、とり刺身は美味しかったです。
やはり鳥肉自体はいいものを使っている様子。
でも、お醤油がちょっと濃いめで
この鳥肉には合わないんじゃないかな、という感じ。

2品目の魚の焼き物は、
大根おろしがかかっているのですが、
なんだか冷えて、ビシャビシャしています。
箱懐石といっても、作り置きのお惣菜と同レベルです。

それから、3品目は揚げ物。
海老とカキをそれぞれ、
練り物でくるんで揚げたものが
出て来ましたが、これにかかっているソースが
普通のトマトケチャップをベースにしたもので、
どうも、あんまり細かく調味料に気を遣ったりは
してないみたいです。
3,680円だとそんなもんでしょうか。
4品目はお芋とかの煮物。これは普通。
連れはゴリゴリしてると言ってましたが。

ここで、えらい時間が空いてボーっとしてたら
最初に説明してくれた年配の女性、
いわゆるおばちゃんが、
「やきとりは出ましたか?」と言って来ました。
おいおい、一応自分の付いたテーブルくらい
何が出たか覚えててよ、と思いました。
ちょっと無責任。

そして、最後にお味噌汁とご飯、
デザートとお茶が出て終了です。
ビール3本とお銚子1本、合計で3名16,000円なり。
まあ、居酒屋で飲んだと思えば
値段もお味も接客もこんなものだと思うんですが、
美味しいものを食べて、
ちょっといい気分になるために
期待してやって来た我々には不満でした。
味付けへのこだわりとか、
ホスピタリティ溢れるプロの接客、といったものが
全く見られませんでした。
なんでこれで、有名店なんだろう?
ほんと普通のお店です。普通の。

やっぱり鳥肉で売ってるお店なので、
どっちかといえば、
きじ焼き重とか鳥ちゃんこ鍋とかを
いただくべきでしたね。
行かれる方、箱会席以外を
召し上がることをお勧め致します!

|

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